Kief, Hash, Pack, Brick, Brown, Bowl rubber, sticky icky.
Whatever you call it, its the same thing; and making it is a pretty easy task.
You can use anything from left over cut/trim from harvest, or entire buds.
The Screen Method
You will simply need "bubble bags"
or a mesh screen of about 125-150 micron.
The larger the mesh, the more youll have, but the lower the grade.
With the opposite being true as you reduce screen size. Do not go over 175 is my diagnosis.
Going below 110 is also a pretty bad idea.
You will also need a few liters worth of ice if using bubble bags.
For the screen, suspend it over the whitest brightest paper you can find, and "gently" wave the grass
back and forth across it, the good stuff will go through and the bad stuff will not.
For bubble bags, "which will separate your shake into 'grades'", you put the smallest micron bag in first
then each other in that order untill your bags are in place, then your ice, your shake, and water untill
your bags are 80% topped up. Now vigorously mix with a hand blender for 10-15 minutes and then allow to sit
an hour.
Fill cellophane with your mixes "or if in grades, separate cellophane" and wrap tightly.
Wrap in 5 layers of newsprint and wet, tape it up. Use a rolling pin, cough leg and then have sex on it :)
whatever it takes to compact and tight that as much as you can.
Rewet the paper, make sure your tape is holding and bake in an oven of 100*F for 10minutes
then repress.
The Blender Method
Put water in a blender. Add a large handful of leaves, stems, seeds and weak weed. Put it in 3 or 4 ice cubes and blend it for 3-4 minutes or so. Just make sure everything is chopped very finely. Second, you will need a gold reusable coffee filter. Get a large mouth quart mason jar, and strain your Slurpee mixture through it. Once you have strained all the liquid through, run some more water through the leaf material to wash any extra trichomes through.
After a few minutes you will notice a white collection at the bottom of the jar, this is the trichomes. Let the trichomes settle at the bottom for about 20-30 minutes. Next, pour off the top 2/3's of the filtered green water, leaving the settled trichomes at the bottom. Add more ice water to get the green stuff out, and let the trichomes settle at the bottom for about 20 minutes again. Repeat this step one more time. Pour off as much water as you can without pouring off trichomes, filter the resulting trichome/water mix through a paper coffee filter. The trichomes will not go through the paper, but the water will. When all the water has gone through, slightly wet, cold, mass of trichomes will be left. They will be easy to handle and to press.
Never store wet hash! it can mold.
Friday 25 March 2011
Tuesday 22 March 2011
How to prune/top cannabis.
Pruning marijuana isnt hard, in fact you should prune every plant at least once regardless of its lineage.
That may be a bold statement, but i'm sticking to it until proven otherwise ;)
Weed can be pruned any number of times, And at each site will cause two top, and in addition all
side sites will also begin to grow, causing a Christmas shaped plant to bush like a rose bush.
Stubborn indica plants, or with sativa traits as well, to bush out the same. View the image here:
Note at each internode, there is a small set of leaves there, but they do not grow on a stem, they just
exist at the joints while the plant shoots straight up the middle.
If you cut the top of that plant, growth will stop in the main cola/stem and then the leaves that existed
in the joints before will stem up and grow. This causes as much as double the bud sites as before.
In addition, each new bud site can be pruned again and again.
To do the prune, you seek the growing top "Technically any growing 'tip' will be what you need"
Look for the 3rd internode from the top, and cut about a half centimeter above the joint.
Growth will appear to stop for a day or so, then youll notice your new tips growing :D
Do not prune closer then 1 week of flower.
Do not prune when you have transplanted at least 2 days after. And wait untill growth resumes
if it hasnt in that 2 days time.
Do not prune sick plants.
Do not prune baby plants.
Do not prune clones before they are sturdy and growing fast.
Do not prune insect infested plants.
Although I never do it, you could apply a small bit of cooler wax, or gel to the cut site on the mother plant
to help against drying out, ive never had the problem. If you do keep it in mind.
You can easily "clone" anything you cut off the mother.
Not only will you get a bigger yeild from the mother plant
But you can get another tiny plant with a few more grams on it, Remember its all free anyway, you wernt
cloning, just topping :D
Questions?
That may be a bold statement, but i'm sticking to it until proven otherwise ;)
Weed can be pruned any number of times, And at each site will cause two top, and in addition all
side sites will also begin to grow, causing a Christmas shaped plant to bush like a rose bush.
Stubborn indica plants, or with sativa traits as well, to bush out the same. View the image here:
Note at each internode, there is a small set of leaves there, but they do not grow on a stem, they just
exist at the joints while the plant shoots straight up the middle.
in the joints before will stem up and grow. This causes as much as double the bud sites as before.
In addition, each new bud site can be pruned again and again.
To do the prune, you seek the growing top "Technically any growing 'tip' will be what you need"
Look for the 3rd internode from the top, and cut about a half centimeter above the joint.
Growth will appear to stop for a day or so, then youll notice your new tips growing :D
Do not prune closer then 1 week of flower.
Do not prune when you have transplanted at least 2 days after. And wait untill growth resumes
if it hasnt in that 2 days time.
Do not prune sick plants.
Do not prune baby plants.
Do not prune clones before they are sturdy and growing fast.
Do not prune insect infested plants.
Although I never do it, you could apply a small bit of cooler wax, or gel to the cut site on the mother plant
to help against drying out, ive never had the problem. If you do keep it in mind.
You can easily "clone" anything you cut off the mother.
Not only will you get a bigger yeild from the mother plant
But you can get another tiny plant with a few more grams on it, Remember its all free anyway, you wernt
cloning, just topping :D
Questions?
Saturday 19 March 2011
DIY BUBBLER HYDROPONICS
This is a simple bubbler system, the easiest to DIY, and operate.
Bubbler systems also use less nutrients then a flow system "usually 1/3rd" but read your product labels.
I cant find my camera wire :/ and its proprietary so im shit outta luck at the moment, ill use
microsoft paint to demonstrate every step that needs it.
Notice: To make a cloner DIY Bubbler make the lid according to THIS POST.
So do not do your lid as make here, do the rest then click that link!
What you need.
1) A bucket with a lid - Any bucket size really will do, but remember the size will determine plant size
or how many plants you can even plant. A margarine container would work for example, but would be silly.
2) Plastic cups / Net Pots. "You can make your own net pot, just put holes half way up the side of your cups, and evenly along the bottom."
3) Aquarium air pump, aquarium tube about 4' long should be enough, and an air stone.
If your bucket is really large, 2 airstones, a Y splitter, and a 2 smaller " 5 inches? " air tubes.
This will allow an air tube at each end of your water tank.
4)Grow medium, Typically anything will do, find some online. For me Ive used even aquarium gravel for with
success, give it a try!
Heres an image of your final setup.
Lit should be flat without curvature, preventing problems holding the plants pots in place.
The cuts should be about 1/4 inc smaller then the actual pots, then cut slits out to the width of the
pot, this will allow a tighter grip against your pots.
Image two shows great patterns to follow when putting in your pots.
Make sure the holes you cut "carefully" into the lid do not overlap, keep pots of equal space apart.
Water level should be just above the pots, as roots grow, lower water level "and nute level" accordingly.
Pots should be tight and snug, not loose or weak. use thicker plastic. Make sure holes they are in
support them up well, dont let them fall in.
Your reservoir "the largest bin" should be as light proof as possible. This reduces fungi, mold or
water Bourne algae, which will suffocate your plants and use up your nutrients.
Keep PH according to the plants your growing, easy to use testing strips are available all over.
If you wish to buy bigger you could get a digital probe.
Your pumping air inside, so make sure its fresher air. Roots actually need both Co2 and oxygen.
Water should be topped up if needed. And the entire water should be changed each 7-14 days.
Cannabis and tomato, 7 days. Lettuce and herbs, 14 days; etc. use your judgement here.
Dont grow root vegetables silly ;p
Check daily! Hyrdoponics "this system is the most forgiving type" is not a forgiving way to grow
the plants react fast to toxins, Ph problems, etc. check your system daily "several" if permitted.
If your used to soil growing forget what you know "some of it lol". Soil is the most forgiving way to grow.
Hydroponics isnt for the the less intellegent, if you cant use the image above in all its simplicity, you may
not be ready to operate one. Harsh but truthful, believe me.
Questions and comments go below, happy growing!
Bubbler systems also use less nutrients then a flow system "usually 1/3rd" but read your product labels.
I cant find my camera wire :/ and its proprietary so im shit outta luck at the moment, ill use
microsoft paint to demonstrate every step that needs it.
Notice: To make a cloner DIY Bubbler make the lid according to THIS POST.
So do not do your lid as make here, do the rest then click that link!
What you need.
1) A bucket with a lid - Any bucket size really will do, but remember the size will determine plant size
or how many plants you can even plant. A margarine container would work for example, but would be silly.
2) Plastic cups / Net Pots. "You can make your own net pot, just put holes half way up the side of your cups, and evenly along the bottom."
3) Aquarium air pump, aquarium tube about 4' long should be enough, and an air stone.
If your bucket is really large, 2 airstones, a Y splitter, and a 2 smaller " 5 inches? " air tubes.
This will allow an air tube at each end of your water tank.
4)Grow medium, Typically anything will do, find some online. For me Ive used even aquarium gravel for with
success, give it a try!
Heres an image of your final setup.
Lit should be flat without curvature, preventing problems holding the plants pots in place.
The cuts should be about 1/4 inc smaller then the actual pots, then cut slits out to the width of the
pot, this will allow a tighter grip against your pots.
Image two shows great patterns to follow when putting in your pots.
Make sure the holes you cut "carefully" into the lid do not overlap, keep pots of equal space apart.
Water level should be just above the pots, as roots grow, lower water level "and nute level" accordingly.
Pots should be tight and snug, not loose or weak. use thicker plastic. Make sure holes they are in
support them up well, dont let them fall in.
Your reservoir "the largest bin" should be as light proof as possible. This reduces fungi, mold or
water Bourne algae, which will suffocate your plants and use up your nutrients.
Keep PH according to the plants your growing, easy to use testing strips are available all over.
If you wish to buy bigger you could get a digital probe.
Your pumping air inside, so make sure its fresher air. Roots actually need both Co2 and oxygen.
Water should be topped up if needed. And the entire water should be changed each 7-14 days.
Cannabis and tomato, 7 days. Lettuce and herbs, 14 days; etc. use your judgement here.
Dont grow root vegetables silly ;p
Check daily! Hyrdoponics "this system is the most forgiving type" is not a forgiving way to grow
the plants react fast to toxins, Ph problems, etc. check your system daily "several" if permitted.
If your used to soil growing forget what you know "some of it lol". Soil is the most forgiving way to grow.
Hydroponics isnt for the the less intellegent, if you cant use the image above in all its simplicity, you may
not be ready to operate one. Harsh but truthful, believe me.
Questions and comments go below, happy growing!
Thursday 17 March 2011
How to avoid the big bust. Dont get busted, dont get caught.
A) Smoke at home, why smoke in the open? You have little to no protection against search and seizure law when your not in your home.
B) Do not keep drugs in the glove box, thats just silly. Its the first place fuzz will look if searching.
Be clever, or leave your stash at home, theres no reason to take it everywhere with you.
C) This goes for your ashtray too, leaving roaches or dimes in the ashtray will only get you busted.
D) Ganja, lighters, pipes, bongs, hookah's, never should be left in plain view, and again if you keep
the smoking at home, theres no reason to have it with you anyway.
E) Driving under the effects of marijuana is the same as drunk driving, its cause for DUI/DWI charges, will
get you searched. I also dont condone it, drunk/high driving is selfish, and dangerous. walk or cab it.
F) If you must transport something, keep it in a locked box, locked suitcase, locked ****** etc.
It will require a warrant rather then a search and seizure law. If they dont have one they will break
the law and it will be unable to be used against you. They know this however and will not.
G) Hide you stash well, waterproof baggies in a vial of lotion for example. better yet, but that vial of lotion
in your locked bag.
H) IF you have something on you, dont speed, run stop signs, U-Turn or hit a cat; etc. Youll get pulled over.
I) High in public? Dont appear to be high if you have drugs on you. If you cant do that, keep your stash in the home.
J) If you keep everything together, youll have one place to worry about if you know they are comming.
Beats running all over the house looking for stuff. In addition having legal herb around will give a good
reason to have a bong for example. Just make sure that the legal smoke is also in view if your going to
go that route, and explain it slowly, and dont be beligerent. Keep the stash hidden will and you
may not even suffer a search.
K) If you have to carry dope around, keep 1 small amount. if you have to carry alot keep it in a single bag.
You dont wanna add selling to your list of charges. In addition, dont have weapons of any kind on you, even
an innocent looking pocket/swiss army knife can add very serious charges. even if it was only used to cut
your bud. The police can be real shit heads, and make it look different, weither they know the truth or not.
Remember, your not the only one who wants to look good at your job.
L) Never, ever, ever give permission to be searched if asked. This usually means they cant search without
permission because they have no grounds, so dont give it to them. If you think your clean make sure of it
before you give the OK, if your unsure, just say no. Id say no regardless if i was carrying or not.
If you dont have grounds, dont waste my fukin time, simple.
M) If arrested in the home, police can search a limited area around you without a warrant, usually within
10-15 feet, and anything you can see/reach under, over, jump or crawl at.
Generally the room your in and everything in it. Remember that when choosing where to hide your stash.
Tips added below that are valid will be added directly to this list for all.
B) Do not keep drugs in the glove box, thats just silly. Its the first place fuzz will look if searching.
Be clever, or leave your stash at home, theres no reason to take it everywhere with you.
C) This goes for your ashtray too, leaving roaches or dimes in the ashtray will only get you busted.
D) Ganja, lighters, pipes, bongs, hookah's, never should be left in plain view, and again if you keep
the smoking at home, theres no reason to have it with you anyway.
E) Driving under the effects of marijuana is the same as drunk driving, its cause for DUI/DWI charges, will
get you searched. I also dont condone it, drunk/high driving is selfish, and dangerous. walk or cab it.
F) If you must transport something, keep it in a locked box, locked suitcase, locked ****** etc.
It will require a warrant rather then a search and seizure law. If they dont have one they will break
the law and it will be unable to be used against you. They know this however and will not.
G) Hide you stash well, waterproof baggies in a vial of lotion for example. better yet, but that vial of lotion
in your locked bag.
H) IF you have something on you, dont speed, run stop signs, U-Turn or hit a cat; etc. Youll get pulled over.
I) High in public? Dont appear to be high if you have drugs on you. If you cant do that, keep your stash in the home.
J) If you keep everything together, youll have one place to worry about if you know they are comming.
Beats running all over the house looking for stuff. In addition having legal herb around will give a good
reason to have a bong for example. Just make sure that the legal smoke is also in view if your going to
go that route, and explain it slowly, and dont be beligerent. Keep the stash hidden will and you
may not even suffer a search.
K) If you have to carry dope around, keep 1 small amount. if you have to carry alot keep it in a single bag.
You dont wanna add selling to your list of charges. In addition, dont have weapons of any kind on you, even
an innocent looking pocket/swiss army knife can add very serious charges. even if it was only used to cut
your bud. The police can be real shit heads, and make it look different, weither they know the truth or not.
Remember, your not the only one who wants to look good at your job.
L) Never, ever, ever give permission to be searched if asked. This usually means they cant search without
permission because they have no grounds, so dont give it to them. If you think your clean make sure of it
before you give the OK, if your unsure, just say no. Id say no regardless if i was carrying or not.
If you dont have grounds, dont waste my fukin time, simple.
M) If arrested in the home, police can search a limited area around you without a warrant, usually within
10-15 feet, and anything you can see/reach under, over, jump or crawl at.
Generally the room your in and everything in it. Remember that when choosing where to hide your stash.
Tips added below that are valid will be added directly to this list for all.
Tuesday 15 March 2011
Growing Onions - The chefs master ingredient.
How to grow onions?
Onions are planted much like garlic; from seeds, or bulbs.
Onions are terrific at being "Macho" and will do well pretty much anywhere, indoors and out.
In the crack of your walkway, or down the mud at the side of your house.
Of course it would do better if you didnt grow there, but they would!
There is such a fantastic array of onions to choose from too; bunching green, leek, white, brown, spanish and red.
and of each color is another myriad of choice for each, as example, white onions then have:
Sweet baby, tiny tott, table top, welsh. and this list goes on. Hundreds to choose from.
So once you have your bulbs/seeds in hand here goes!
----
TIP: You can plant the bottom root portion of a grocery store onion as a bulb!
Simply cut it off the bottom intact, and leave a small portion of flesh, bury 1cm deep.
---
TIP: For bunching onions, leave 1cm of green growth left, and slice off half off the bulb.
Leave the small green plant sticking above soil, and the half bulb below ground.
The bulb will redevelop and the plant will regrow.
---
If planting from seeds, place seeds about 1.5 to 2.0 cm deep and about 30cm apart on all sides.
Soil should be moist of course, with fresh potting soil added for nutriment. But will grow from sandy to clay like.
Onions are frost resistant and can be grown in most climates, but for best results late march is a good time to start.
Keep weeds at bay, they tend to make onions very angry and cry :D weeds do well around onions
and will ruin a good onion if you let it. And like garlic can slow and delay onion growth.
To harvest onion, pull up the vegetable, and remove any dirt, leave it on the ground where it was picked
in the wind/sun for about 48 hours. After, remove the onion tops, leaving 2cm of papery husk left behind
to help prevent rot, much like garlic; this will happen fast if you do not. Remove roots leaving 1/8" behind.
Watch for "onion fly" and treat promptly.
TIPS:
1) Onion fruits based on photoperiod unlike other similar/same family vegetables "eg garlic"
12-14 hours of light per day, the start of fall, will trigger the bulbing to occur. Remember this if groing
indoors under HID.
2) Onions and Garlic are a main ingredient in many insect repellents, you could make your own.
3) Using soapy water "to break down water skin" will drown most problems attacking onions, from thrips to root maggot; which will eat your bulbs with a bib on and laugh at ya.
4) After harvest, if you remove the bottom "when cooking for example" you can replant the root portion
Just place the intact root piece with a bit of flesh still intact in soil, and cover with 1cm.
Technically youll never need to buy seeds or bulbs again "or ever if you do this from a grocery store onion."
Onions are planted much like garlic; from seeds, or bulbs.
Onions are terrific at being "Macho" and will do well pretty much anywhere, indoors and out.
In the crack of your walkway, or down the mud at the side of your house.
Of course it would do better if you didnt grow there, but they would!
There is such a fantastic array of onions to choose from too; bunching green, leek, white, brown, spanish and red.
and of each color is another myriad of choice for each, as example, white onions then have:
Sweet baby, tiny tott, table top, welsh. and this list goes on. Hundreds to choose from.
So once you have your bulbs/seeds in hand here goes!
----
TIP: You can plant the bottom root portion of a grocery store onion as a bulb!
Simply cut it off the bottom intact, and leave a small portion of flesh, bury 1cm deep.
---
TIP: For bunching onions, leave 1cm of green growth left, and slice off half off the bulb.
Leave the small green plant sticking above soil, and the half bulb below ground.
The bulb will redevelop and the plant will regrow.
---
If planting from seeds, place seeds about 1.5 to 2.0 cm deep and about 30cm apart on all sides.
Soil should be moist of course, with fresh potting soil added for nutriment. But will grow from sandy to clay like.
Onions are frost resistant and can be grown in most climates, but for best results late march is a good time to start.
Keep weeds at bay, they tend to make onions very angry and cry :D weeds do well around onions
and will ruin a good onion if you let it. And like garlic can slow and delay onion growth.
To harvest onion, pull up the vegetable, and remove any dirt, leave it on the ground where it was picked
in the wind/sun for about 48 hours. After, remove the onion tops, leaving 2cm of papery husk left behind
to help prevent rot, much like garlic; this will happen fast if you do not. Remove roots leaving 1/8" behind.
Watch for "onion fly" and treat promptly.
TIPS:
1) Onion fruits based on photoperiod unlike other similar/same family vegetables "eg garlic"
12-14 hours of light per day, the start of fall, will trigger the bulbing to occur. Remember this if groing
indoors under HID.
2) Onions and Garlic are a main ingredient in many insect repellents, you could make your own.
3) Using soapy water "to break down water skin" will drown most problems attacking onions, from thrips to root maggot; which will eat your bulbs with a bib on and laugh at ya.
4) After harvest, if you remove the bottom "when cooking for example" you can replant the root portion
Just place the intact root piece with a bit of flesh still intact in soil, and cover with 1cm.
Technically youll never need to buy seeds or bulbs again "or ever if you do this from a grocery store onion."
Monday 14 March 2011
Growing Garlic - Very Easy to do!
How to grow garlic?
"Garlic can have a dormancy, and 4 weeks in the fridge can break it"
"Most times the grocery store one will just grow! so give it a go."
"After you plant a clove or two, the rest should go in the fridge, in case it doesnt take"
Garlic can be grown indoors or out, greenhouse or grow-tent, and living room or open sky!
First, unless your looking for a very specific variety theres no need to buy garlic bulbs from
a nursery or walmart's gardening department.
A simple visit to your local grocer will do just:
A) Make sure you like it, cook with a clove or two first; which helps you determine if.
B) It is fresh, brown spots or rotting garlic shouldn't be planted, it may still grow however;
Probably slow at first.
If growing in pots ensure you put it right into its home, no transplanting of garlic, it doesnt like it.
You will probably want a long pot to grow 4 or 5, or deep pots with a low circumference as its a root
and doesn't need much as far as lateral growth goes.
If growing in soil in a outdoor garden, or greenhouse keep them to themselves away from other plants.
Planting in fall for spring harvest is ideal if growing outside, simply plant just before first frost,
mulch area well with clippings or leaves, and dampen ground; plant 2" deep.
Many garden veggies tolerate each other, garlic will not. Ive seen garlic stop growing when a weed
popped up near it, keep this in mind.
Garlic is extremely easy to grow if left to its solitude, both from you and other plants.
Use high quality soil for bigger and better garlic, manure or compost is great for this and should be
added to the hole before you plant your clove/bulb. Regular potting soil will also do well.
Growing garlic from seed is possible, but its very moody, hard, and needs generations to adapt to
the area your growing, keep it to bulbs. Bulbs are literally just the cloves of garlic, remove the papery
cover and plant rooted "rough" side down, pointed side up about 1 or 2 inches below soil level.
If growing in a pot, 1 inch is enough, going too deep will be bad if your pot isnt deep and it should be!.
Do not remove the hard bottom off your cloves, the piece that was connected to the flat basal plate
is where your roots are born, and damage could delay or prevent growth.
Like potato, garlic needs pretty even soil moisture for uniform and healthy growth.
When its ready, the plant "which looks like green onion" will brown and dye back.
This is where you pull your garlic from the ground, carefully!
After garlic is harvested it needs to be cured. In curing the energy from the leaves goes into the bulbs as they dry. Remove any chunks of dirt from the roots, being careful not to bruise the garlic. Leave the roots on as they have a moderating effect on the drying rate. Root removal will be done after curing is complete.
Two weeks of drying/curing is ideal but ive always just left it for 1 week. If unsure
or new to garlic leave for 2.
TIPS:
Garlic can be sunburned, do not allow it to dry in the sun, or grow above ground. The taste becomes
gawd-aweful.
Move the crop! do not plant garlic in the same spot each year, every two years only. This means
Switch spots with your peas, or lettuce.
Do NOT compost garlic plant, Im not sure why, this is just what i was taught. And have never done it
if you try, or have, please let me know below. it will be added to this post directly for all to share.
Addition by Ryan - Below poster thanks for helping me complete this.
""" Garlic can be composted, but the cloves do have a tendency to sprout. If you chop them up before adding them you should be alright. Worms don't seem to care for garlic, so keep it out of worm bins. """ -3.15.2011
Soil bourne disease can spread in garlic very fast, if you suspect this problem, pull it and dispose
clean any tools "shovel, spade etc" after to prevent spreading.
Before storing, remove as much root as you can without touching the basal plate.
You should have about 1/8" left of roots. and about 1" left of paper above the actual garlic.
Remember, garlic grows above ground fast, try it and be amazed!
"Garlic can have a dormancy, and 4 weeks in the fridge can break it"
"Most times the grocery store one will just grow! so give it a go."
"After you plant a clove or two, the rest should go in the fridge, in case it doesnt take"
Garlic can be grown indoors or out, greenhouse or grow-tent, and living room or open sky!
First, unless your looking for a very specific variety theres no need to buy garlic bulbs from
a nursery or walmart's gardening department.
A simple visit to your local grocer will do just:
A) Make sure you like it, cook with a clove or two first; which helps you determine if.
B) It is fresh, brown spots or rotting garlic shouldn't be planted, it may still grow however;
Probably slow at first.
If growing in pots ensure you put it right into its home, no transplanting of garlic, it doesnt like it.
You will probably want a long pot to grow 4 or 5, or deep pots with a low circumference as its a root
and doesn't need much as far as lateral growth goes.
If growing in soil in a outdoor garden, or greenhouse keep them to themselves away from other plants.
Planting in fall for spring harvest is ideal if growing outside, simply plant just before first frost,
mulch area well with clippings or leaves, and dampen ground; plant 2" deep.
Many garden veggies tolerate each other, garlic will not. Ive seen garlic stop growing when a weed
popped up near it, keep this in mind.
Garlic is extremely easy to grow if left to its solitude, both from you and other plants.
Use high quality soil for bigger and better garlic, manure or compost is great for this and should be
added to the hole before you plant your clove/bulb. Regular potting soil will also do well.
Growing garlic from seed is possible, but its very moody, hard, and needs generations to adapt to
the area your growing, keep it to bulbs. Bulbs are literally just the cloves of garlic, remove the papery
cover and plant rooted "rough" side down, pointed side up about 1 or 2 inches below soil level.
If growing in a pot, 1 inch is enough, going too deep will be bad if your pot isnt deep and it should be!.
Do not remove the hard bottom off your cloves, the piece that was connected to the flat basal plate
is where your roots are born, and damage could delay or prevent growth.
Like potato, garlic needs pretty even soil moisture for uniform and healthy growth.
When its ready, the plant "which looks like green onion" will brown and dye back.
This is where you pull your garlic from the ground, carefully!
After garlic is harvested it needs to be cured. In curing the energy from the leaves goes into the bulbs as they dry. Remove any chunks of dirt from the roots, being careful not to bruise the garlic. Leave the roots on as they have a moderating effect on the drying rate. Root removal will be done after curing is complete.
Two weeks of drying/curing is ideal but ive always just left it for 1 week. If unsure
or new to garlic leave for 2.
TIPS:
Garlic can be sunburned, do not allow it to dry in the sun, or grow above ground. The taste becomes
gawd-aweful.
Move the crop! do not plant garlic in the same spot each year, every two years only. This means
Switch spots with your peas, or lettuce.
Do NOT compost garlic plant, Im not sure why, this is just what i was taught. And have never done it
if you try, or have, please let me know below. it will be added to this post directly for all to share.
Addition by Ryan - Below poster thanks for helping me complete this.
""" Garlic can be composted, but the cloves do have a tendency to sprout. If you chop them up before adding them you should be alright. Worms don't seem to care for garlic, so keep it out of worm bins. """ -3.15.2011
Soil bourne disease can spread in garlic very fast, if you suspect this problem, pull it and dispose
clean any tools "shovel, spade etc" after to prevent spreading.
Before storing, remove as much root as you can without touching the basal plate.
You should have about 1/8" left of roots. and about 1" left of paper above the actual garlic.
Remember, garlic grows above ground fast, try it and be amazed!
Sunday 13 March 2011
Can you believe this crap? BLOOD FROM A TURNIP - An Alimony Story
NOTE: This is an offtopic post and has nothing to do with gardening.
Its about the judicial system and all of its flaws, and how one x-wife (or husband?)
can be cruel and vindictive.
Blood From A Turnip: An Alimony Story
It is commonly said that you cannot get blood from a turnip. Apparently the legal system in this County has found otherwise. Over the past few months, I have been a witness to a case where they have certainly succeeded and continue to try. I apologize if this is lengthy but it is 5 years condensed. I tried to be as brief as possible.
R was disabled in 2003 after working for 17 years for Nonprofit Corp. He received long term disability insurance payments until the Spring of 2004 when he received a lump sum payment. He used the majority of this sum to pay off both marital bills and his wife’s credit card bills. (I mention this simply because this is not a case of a spouse who quits his job or becomes ‘disabled’ to avoid paying support. R was out on disability almost a full year before he was separated from his wife.)
He waited the appropriate period of time and applied for Social Security Disability. As anyone knows who has ever applied for disability, this is an ongoing and lengthy process of denials and appeals. In the meantime, he has been left to earn whatever meager income that he can.
He was separated from his wife in the Summer of 2004. She filed for spousal support and was awarded $1300 per month. This is from a man who had no regular income. At the time, he had a small amount of income from his horse business. The judge stated at that time that he had no idea how to figure spousal support payments in this case. He used an average of the deposits from the past three year’s bank statements. Two of those years, R was working and the final year he was receiving disability payments. He never took into account that his current income had been drastically reduced from that amount.
Having little or no income and not being able to pay a retainer, R was forced to represent himself in his divorce. Nothing was mentioned about spousal support until the very end of the trial when his ex-wife’s attorney asked the judge not to address it at that time but to remand it back to the juvenile and domestic court. Not being an attorney, R had no idea that this would make it a permanent part of the divorce decree and so he did not object. The divorce was granted in the Fall of 2007.
Since then it has been found that R has a degenerative joint condition that is affecting both hips . The hip joints are collapsing and they cause him extreme pain. He has gone from taking over the counter pain relievers to taking 3 different prescriptions for pain. On good days, he can walk without crutches. On bad days even the crutches don’t help. He is scheduled for one hip replacement in a few months. Hopefully, if he recovers well from the first replacement then the second will come soon after.
R’s ex-wife filed a show cause for non payment of support last fall. Even though R is living below the poverty level and is currently receiving food stamps and has not been able to work for years, the court ordered him to pay $5000 within 30 days. Needless to say, it was not possible. Not having any source of income, R could not even borrow the money. In April, he was incarcerated for contempt until the $5,000 was paid. With the help of his family and some very, very good friends, I was able to raise the money to have him released.
R appealed the court’s decision and asked for either modification of the spousal support or preferably termination as he is currently unable to work. Monday, July 6th, the judge denied the appeal. His reasoning was that R could not work when the support was ordered, he could not work when the divorce was final and he still can’t work so nothing has changed.
After hearing of R’s medical conditions and lack of income, his ex-wife requested a sheriff’s sale so that the court would force the sale of the rest of his personal belongings. Apparently both she and the court believe that you can get blood out of a turnip.
No one who is familiar with R’s circumstances and the details of the case can believe that this was ordered in the first place much less that it has been confirmed again. His attorney was in shock. No one could believe that our legal system would order him to pay something that was more than his annual income. To my knowledge, he has never been asked what his current income is.
Due to the denial of the appeal, R will no doubt end up incarcerated again because there is no possible way for him to pay this. The people of the Commonwealth of Virginia will end up paying for the senseless incarceration of another person. According to the Denver Post, the cost of incarcerating one person was $23,876 or over $65 per day and that was in 2004.
Neither of us have a clue as to what to do next. An appeal to a higher court would cost more than both our annual incomes combined. We just sit and wait for the next “Show Cause” and wonder how long it will take her to file it. We have both been so depressed that it has been hard to do anything.
If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, please leave a comment or send me an email. There seems to be no hope.
Post below or Contact 'R' if you can help, or have ideas/suggestions.
- - - - -
My 2cents.
The x-wife should be sued for emotional distress, or something along those lines.
Shes is probably aware he cant pay and continues to knowingly do this.
may be something there?
Its about the judicial system and all of its flaws, and how one x-wife (or husband?)
can be cruel and vindictive.
Blood From A Turnip: An Alimony Story
It is commonly said that you cannot get blood from a turnip. Apparently the legal system in this County has found otherwise. Over the past few months, I have been a witness to a case where they have certainly succeeded and continue to try. I apologize if this is lengthy but it is 5 years condensed. I tried to be as brief as possible.
R was disabled in 2003 after working for 17 years for Nonprofit Corp. He received long term disability insurance payments until the Spring of 2004 when he received a lump sum payment. He used the majority of this sum to pay off both marital bills and his wife’s credit card bills. (I mention this simply because this is not a case of a spouse who quits his job or becomes ‘disabled’ to avoid paying support. R was out on disability almost a full year before he was separated from his wife.)
He waited the appropriate period of time and applied for Social Security Disability. As anyone knows who has ever applied for disability, this is an ongoing and lengthy process of denials and appeals. In the meantime, he has been left to earn whatever meager income that he can.
He was separated from his wife in the Summer of 2004. She filed for spousal support and was awarded $1300 per month. This is from a man who had no regular income. At the time, he had a small amount of income from his horse business. The judge stated at that time that he had no idea how to figure spousal support payments in this case. He used an average of the deposits from the past three year’s bank statements. Two of those years, R was working and the final year he was receiving disability payments. He never took into account that his current income had been drastically reduced from that amount.
Having little or no income and not being able to pay a retainer, R was forced to represent himself in his divorce. Nothing was mentioned about spousal support until the very end of the trial when his ex-wife’s attorney asked the judge not to address it at that time but to remand it back to the juvenile and domestic court. Not being an attorney, R had no idea that this would make it a permanent part of the divorce decree and so he did not object. The divorce was granted in the Fall of 2007.
Since then it has been found that R has a degenerative joint condition that is affecting both hips . The hip joints are collapsing and they cause him extreme pain. He has gone from taking over the counter pain relievers to taking 3 different prescriptions for pain. On good days, he can walk without crutches. On bad days even the crutches don’t help. He is scheduled for one hip replacement in a few months. Hopefully, if he recovers well from the first replacement then the second will come soon after.
R’s ex-wife filed a show cause for non payment of support last fall. Even though R is living below the poverty level and is currently receiving food stamps and has not been able to work for years, the court ordered him to pay $5000 within 30 days. Needless to say, it was not possible. Not having any source of income, R could not even borrow the money. In April, he was incarcerated for contempt until the $5,000 was paid. With the help of his family and some very, very good friends, I was able to raise the money to have him released.
R appealed the court’s decision and asked for either modification of the spousal support or preferably termination as he is currently unable to work. Monday, July 6th, the judge denied the appeal. His reasoning was that R could not work when the support was ordered, he could not work when the divorce was final and he still can’t work so nothing has changed.
After hearing of R’s medical conditions and lack of income, his ex-wife requested a sheriff’s sale so that the court would force the sale of the rest of his personal belongings. Apparently both she and the court believe that you can get blood out of a turnip.
No one who is familiar with R’s circumstances and the details of the case can believe that this was ordered in the first place much less that it has been confirmed again. His attorney was in shock. No one could believe that our legal system would order him to pay something that was more than his annual income. To my knowledge, he has never been asked what his current income is.
Due to the denial of the appeal, R will no doubt end up incarcerated again because there is no possible way for him to pay this. The people of the Commonwealth of Virginia will end up paying for the senseless incarceration of another person. According to the Denver Post, the cost of incarcerating one person was $23,876 or over $65 per day and that was in 2004.
Neither of us have a clue as to what to do next. An appeal to a higher court would cost more than both our annual incomes combined. We just sit and wait for the next “Show Cause” and wonder how long it will take her to file it. We have both been so depressed that it has been hard to do anything.
If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, please leave a comment or send me an email. There seems to be no hope.
Post below or Contact 'R' if you can help, or have ideas/suggestions.
- - - - -
My 2cents.
The x-wife should be sued for emotional distress, or something along those lines.
Shes is probably aware he cant pay and continues to knowingly do this.
may be something there?
12 Vegetables that can be grown in pots!
1) Beets - I hated beets for years until a friend convinced me to try fresh ones last year. Fresh beets have a whole different taste than pickled ones. These can be grown in as little space as a cake pan and are better picked small and tender, about the size of a silver dollar.
2) Spinach – Fresh spinach is good both cooked and raw and it is another vegetable that can be grown in a small container. The leaves are best picked young and tender. One of the best things about spinach is that it doesn’t have to grow fruit so it doesn’t need a large container to support it. This is a cool weather plant and does not like hot summer days.
3) Leaf Lettuce - Like spinach, leaf lettuce can be grown in a small container and doesn’t need hot summer days to mature. Pick when leaves are young and tender. Start pots at different times so you have a continuous supply. There is also a variety of miniature head lettuce that can be container grown.
4) Patio Tomatoes – They are coming up with more and more types of tomatoes that are suited to container growing. Traditional tomatoes take a huge amount of dirt and grow to be 3 or 4 feet tall and wide if not supported. Patio tomatoes are more compact and were bred to retain a small size and be grown in a pot. Here is a variety of cherry tomatoes that can be grown in a container.
5) Radishes – Like beets, radishes don’t need a huge pot to grow and mature fairly quickly. These are fun to grow and make a great addition to any salad.
6) Green Peppers – These take a fairly good size pot and are definitely warm weather plants but they are not difficult to grow. They can be used in a variety of dishes and freeze well. If you are feeling a bit experimental, there is a new variety of mini peppers that you can buy. They are small and colorful.
7) Green Beans – While I would normally not recommend growing green beans in a container, they have come up with several varieties of dwarf green beans that are recommended and actually as you can plant 16 green bean plants in a square foot I would imagine these would do fairly well in a container.
8) Squash – Again, while squash is not something you would normally consider a container plant, new varieties are very compatible. This mild summer Patty Pan squash is only 2 ft high and 2 ft wide. It may be too big for an apartment but then maybe not.
9) Eggplant – Eggplant is a mainstay in Mediterranean cooking. It’s compact size makes it an ideal choice for container growing.
10) Garlic Chives – This is one of my favorites. It’s a beautiful flower and every part of the plant is edible.
11) Swiss Chard – Fresh Swiss Chard has a sweet buttery flavor that is delicious. The grocery store variety loses SO much of the flavor that it barely resembles the garden variety. Try it fresh and sauted in a bit of olive oil with a hint of garlic.
12) A pot of Herbs - You can mix and match herbs in a container. Basil, thyme, sage, tarragon, rosemary will all grow fine. My choices to put together would be basil, thyme and sage. Basil is an upright annual plant while sage is kind of sprawly. Thyme is a low grower so the three together make an interesting potted arrangement. All but basil are perennial.
Being a clever gardener means being clever, a pot could be anything from the bottom of a coke bottle.
An old 5L ice cream tub, imagination is key; so is the drainage holds you should remember to add
with a drill or screwdriver :D
C achingdebts.
2) Spinach – Fresh spinach is good both cooked and raw and it is another vegetable that can be grown in a small container. The leaves are best picked young and tender. One of the best things about spinach is that it doesn’t have to grow fruit so it doesn’t need a large container to support it. This is a cool weather plant and does not like hot summer days.
3) Leaf Lettuce - Like spinach, leaf lettuce can be grown in a small container and doesn’t need hot summer days to mature. Pick when leaves are young and tender. Start pots at different times so you have a continuous supply. There is also a variety of miniature head lettuce that can be container grown.
4) Patio Tomatoes – They are coming up with more and more types of tomatoes that are suited to container growing. Traditional tomatoes take a huge amount of dirt and grow to be 3 or 4 feet tall and wide if not supported. Patio tomatoes are more compact and were bred to retain a small size and be grown in a pot. Here is a variety of cherry tomatoes that can be grown in a container.
5) Radishes – Like beets, radishes don’t need a huge pot to grow and mature fairly quickly. These are fun to grow and make a great addition to any salad.
6) Green Peppers – These take a fairly good size pot and are definitely warm weather plants but they are not difficult to grow. They can be used in a variety of dishes and freeze well. If you are feeling a bit experimental, there is a new variety of mini peppers that you can buy. They are small and colorful.
7) Green Beans – While I would normally not recommend growing green beans in a container, they have come up with several varieties of dwarf green beans that are recommended and actually as you can plant 16 green bean plants in a square foot I would imagine these would do fairly well in a container.
8) Squash – Again, while squash is not something you would normally consider a container plant, new varieties are very compatible. This mild summer Patty Pan squash is only 2 ft high and 2 ft wide. It may be too big for an apartment but then maybe not.
9) Eggplant – Eggplant is a mainstay in Mediterranean cooking. It’s compact size makes it an ideal choice for container growing.
10) Garlic Chives – This is one of my favorites. It’s a beautiful flower and every part of the plant is edible.
11) Swiss Chard – Fresh Swiss Chard has a sweet buttery flavor that is delicious. The grocery store variety loses SO much of the flavor that it barely resembles the garden variety. Try it fresh and sauted in a bit of olive oil with a hint of garlic.
12) A pot of Herbs - You can mix and match herbs in a container. Basil, thyme, sage, tarragon, rosemary will all grow fine. My choices to put together would be basil, thyme and sage. Basil is an upright annual plant while sage is kind of sprawly. Thyme is a low grower so the three together make an interesting potted arrangement. All but basil are perennial.
Being a clever gardener means being clever, a pot could be anything from the bottom of a coke bottle.
An old 5L ice cream tub, imagination is key; so is the drainage holds you should remember to add
with a drill or screwdriver :D
C achingdebts.
The Urban Farmer: What to grow inside easier!
1) TOMATO or TOMATILLO
These are silly easy to grow, needing only a little time, support (stakes or cage), and a south
facing window. Most of the horror stories about this wonderful plant are from gardeners that plant them
in too cold of an area. They need warmth. Tomato will grow themselves if they are in the right spot.
Id recommend a small heirloom type for indoor cultivation. If you have a HID grow area you can pretty
much grow any type you want "remember though, support the plant, they will not be able to hold up
the tomatoes on their own! For tomatillo follow the above recommendations, do not eat the papery husk
the fruits inside. They look like tomato and taste like pineapple, awesome indeed.
2) SQUASH!!!!
1 plant of squash "or pumpkin/watermelon but those are harder, this post is about what is easy"
will grow to a 6x6 foot area and give you 100s of pounds of food, easily. in 3 months time.
You can just water and forget, they will sprawl all over in SPITE of you.
They dont need as much light as tomato, but still need brighter light.
3) CARROT!!!
Easy to grow, and fast too, but the problem here is they get deep.
When i grew carrot i used 710ml pepsi bottles "the taller, skinny ones"
and put 1 carrot to a bottle.
If you get the baby type. That grow 2-4" then you can use a balcony planter.
You know the ones, they are half a foot but 3 feet. and go about 7inches deep.
You could easily grow 20-30 baby carrots in there. It should be noted that carrots
can grow in pretty cold areas, if your place is drafty and you been unsuccessful in the past
try carrots, youll have your first taste of success.
4) DWARF TREES
These trees are fantastic, they grow in a single pot, get no more then 3 or 4 feet tall and can provide you
with pounds of fruit like lemons, limes, oranges, kumquats, blueberries, strawberries, kiwi, etc.
Remember they tend to produce starting second year. "Citrus from seed, even dwarf will be longer"
and will give you pounds and pounds of produce.
Some dwarf trees "can produce" from day 1, but will never produce unless they have the
required number of branches, and if you keep cutting them off and pruning they will never bear fruit.
Remember that all plants use different things to tell its age, and citrus trees counts it branches.
"Not all branches, just nodes off the main trunk of the tree"
Again, only citrus does this, from what ive been told; other trees, like apple, do not.
5) PEA / BEAN
These 2 plants would grow using your carpet if it was "shag" enough ;D
Drop a seed in a pot, keep moist and be prepared.
3 plants of either will give pounds of food in about 50 days to 65.
Of course, type will determine. Not much to say here, but try. Peas love light but shade more.
try to keep it bright and indirect light.
Peas are vines, but climbers. just give them something, anything to grip onto and they will
grow faster and thrive then if they freestand on thier own.
The plant "knows" when it has support and looks for it before growing faster.
The little thin stems are actually "hands" in a matter of speaking, and if they rest against something will
curl around it, then the plant in that area will grow.
Pinching the top will assist in horizontal growth.
6) Any herb, nuff said.
These are silly easy to grow, needing only a little time, support (stakes or cage), and a south
facing window. Most of the horror stories about this wonderful plant are from gardeners that plant them
in too cold of an area. They need warmth. Tomato will grow themselves if they are in the right spot.
Id recommend a small heirloom type for indoor cultivation. If you have a HID grow area you can pretty
much grow any type you want "remember though, support the plant, they will not be able to hold up
the tomatoes on their own! For tomatillo follow the above recommendations, do not eat the papery husk
the fruits inside. They look like tomato and taste like pineapple, awesome indeed.
2) SQUASH!!!!
1 plant of squash "or pumpkin/watermelon but those are harder, this post is about what is easy"
will grow to a 6x6 foot area and give you 100s of pounds of food, easily. in 3 months time.
You can just water and forget, they will sprawl all over in SPITE of you.
They dont need as much light as tomato, but still need brighter light.
3) CARROT!!!
Easy to grow, and fast too, but the problem here is they get deep.
When i grew carrot i used 710ml pepsi bottles "the taller, skinny ones"
and put 1 carrot to a bottle.
If you get the baby type. That grow 2-4" then you can use a balcony planter.
You know the ones, they are half a foot but 3 feet. and go about 7inches deep.
You could easily grow 20-30 baby carrots in there. It should be noted that carrots
can grow in pretty cold areas, if your place is drafty and you been unsuccessful in the past
try carrots, youll have your first taste of success.
4) DWARF TREES
These trees are fantastic, they grow in a single pot, get no more then 3 or 4 feet tall and can provide you
with pounds of fruit like lemons, limes, oranges, kumquats, blueberries, strawberries, kiwi, etc.
Remember they tend to produce starting second year. "Citrus from seed, even dwarf will be longer"
and will give you pounds and pounds of produce.
Some dwarf trees "can produce" from day 1, but will never produce unless they have the
required number of branches, and if you keep cutting them off and pruning they will never bear fruit.
Remember that all plants use different things to tell its age, and citrus trees counts it branches.
"Not all branches, just nodes off the main trunk of the tree"
Again, only citrus does this, from what ive been told; other trees, like apple, do not.
5) PEA / BEAN
These 2 plants would grow using your carpet if it was "shag" enough ;D
Drop a seed in a pot, keep moist and be prepared.
3 plants of either will give pounds of food in about 50 days to 65.
Of course, type will determine. Not much to say here, but try. Peas love light but shade more.
try to keep it bright and indirect light.
Peas are vines, but climbers. just give them something, anything to grip onto and they will
grow faster and thrive then if they freestand on thier own.
The plant "knows" when it has support and looks for it before growing faster.
The little thin stems are actually "hands" in a matter of speaking, and if they rest against something will
curl around it, then the plant in that area will grow.
Pinching the top will assist in horizontal growth.
6) Any herb, nuff said.
Friday 11 March 2011
Reduce your food cost, easier then you think.
Food for thought!
Since your already a grower, you have the tools, and skills needed to adapt
and grow pretty much anything.
We all know; since it no secret; that the cost of oil, food
and basic necessities required to live are going up in cost.
With that being said, i have some advice here for the home
grower to help offset a small bit of this cost: here goes!
1) Allocate a small area of your grow tent/room to food.
With all this space and light and technology in place already
it would be nothing to change a few plants out for peas,
tomatoes, lettuce, onions, cabbage, leek, or peppers; to name a few.
Each of them require similar care and conditions and seeds for
each is $1-2 for a 10-50 pack. (neeting $100-300 in food value)
2) Make more efficient use of your space, you may not have to even
reduce your medicine plant count.
3) No space in your hydro system? well if you still got room in and
around your equipment, you may have room for a pot with soil. remember
its all for your own benefit in the end, and besides, soil tastes better
and has more micro-nutrient value "probably due to the slower growth".
4) If your a constant grower, maybe skipping one grow cycle for an
entire crop of vegetables would be beneficial, youll be shocked by
how many vegetables you can grow in a smaller area.
Peas, tomatoes, corn, onions; all very prolific, and take about
the same amount of time to grow.
5) Growing in pots/containers? make sure they are square! a square pot of
equal size has more root room and takes less grow room space then thier
round bretheren. Simply changing to square pots can allow you to add
as much as 20% more pots "depending on sizes of course" under the
same amount of HID light.
6) This doesnt really fit here but ill say anyway; Heirloom and home
grown varieties vs commercial types taste so much better, have better
nutrition, store better, etc. Youll be surprized if you havent grown
your own before. seriously, your going to shit yourself.
Have you ever eaten an heirloom yellow tomatow. damn.
Since your already a grower, you have the tools, and skills needed to adapt
and grow pretty much anything.
We all know; since it no secret; that the cost of oil, food
and basic necessities required to live are going up in cost.
With that being said, i have some advice here for the home
grower to help offset a small bit of this cost: here goes!
1) Allocate a small area of your grow tent/room to food.
With all this space and light and technology in place already
it would be nothing to change a few plants out for peas,
tomatoes, lettuce, onions, cabbage, leek, or peppers; to name a few.
Each of them require similar care and conditions and seeds for
each is $1-2 for a 10-50 pack. (neeting $100-300 in food value)
2) Make more efficient use of your space, you may not have to even
reduce your medicine plant count.
3) No space in your hydro system? well if you still got room in and
around your equipment, you may have room for a pot with soil. remember
its all for your own benefit in the end, and besides, soil tastes better
and has more micro-nutrient value "probably due to the slower growth".
4) If your a constant grower, maybe skipping one grow cycle for an
entire crop of vegetables would be beneficial, youll be shocked by
how many vegetables you can grow in a smaller area.
Peas, tomatoes, corn, onions; all very prolific, and take about
the same amount of time to grow.
5) Growing in pots/containers? make sure they are square! a square pot of
equal size has more root room and takes less grow room space then thier
round bretheren. Simply changing to square pots can allow you to add
as much as 20% more pots "depending on sizes of course" under the
same amount of HID light.
6) This doesnt really fit here but ill say anyway; Heirloom and home
grown varieties vs commercial types taste so much better, have better
nutrition, store better, etc. Youll be surprized if you havent grown
your own before. seriously, your going to shit yourself.
Have you ever eaten an heirloom yellow tomatow. damn.
Wednesday 9 March 2011
Enemies of Cannabis - Diseases
Looking for pests and not diseases? Click here.
Before we move into this remember 1 thing - PREVENTION IS BETTER THEN A CURE -
Moving on:
Deficiency - This is the easiest to solve, simply find whats deficient and fix it.
A shortage of iron produces yellowed leaves that may fall off the plant. The pH plays a role in the prevention of deficiency disease. Keep the pH value around 5.8. If this value is too low, the plants can't absorb calcium as well. Consequence? The osmotic processes are impeded. Too low a pH number causes less iron in-take, with the well- known results. A second form of deficiency disease is caused by a shortage of the primary nutrients (NPK). It often involves a lack of nitrogen (N). A nitrogen shortage delays growth, and makes the lower-most leaves turn yellow and again, they can drop off.
Molds can completely destroy a garden in a short time. If the climate in the grow room is well-controlled, molds, in general, have little chance. Molds and fungus thrive very well under humid conditions, preferably without much air circulation. Under these circumstances, mold spores, which are always present in the air, search for a spot to grow into mold cultures. If you don't succeed in preventing mold growth, then you must do something about it as quickly as possible. With light mold growth, immediately remove the affected plant parts, and then create a climate in which cannabis does well, and molds don't (good ventilation, control of humidity and temperature, and putting your plants on a medium which is not too wet, but holds water).
Pythuim Mold (Root rot) This affects roots and inter nodes up to the first set of leaves usually. Only in
the most extreme cases will it go any higher. As its the wet soil it lives on, but again, rare.
Root/stem rot can go unnoticed in soil, If ya love your plants though, youll notice it before they cause
the plants to fall over at the mercy of gravity. If this happens and the plant in general is in "ok" health.
Clone the entire plant, or chop it down into many. the base will be destroyed beyond recognition.
To avoid this, constant soil/rockwool temperature will work. extreme dips and spikes increase its growth.
Mildew (aka toprot) attacks plant tops, but can technically attack in opposite of root rot "anything above the first
inter node is susceptible It also looks the same, it will begin to rot plant tops, branches and those bud
sites your working so hard to protect.
Mildew is white, "Powdery white" is a specific type, but describes most mildew well.
You will need to remove the part of the plant and then a bit to ensure safe removal.
sadly in some cases this means the whole plant top. All is not lost, as the plant will recover
and act as if it had been simply topped, and will side branch, it simply sets you back weeks.
Humidity during the dark period is what helps here, if its too high during lights out, mildew can take hold.
Im pretty sure im missing something here, let me know in the comment box below.
Before we move into this remember 1 thing - PREVENTION IS BETTER THEN A CURE -
Moving on:
Deficiency - This is the easiest to solve, simply find whats deficient and fix it.
A shortage of iron produces yellowed leaves that may fall off the plant. The pH plays a role in the prevention of deficiency disease. Keep the pH value around 5.8. If this value is too low, the plants can't absorb calcium as well. Consequence? The osmotic processes are impeded. Too low a pH number causes less iron in-take, with the well- known results. A second form of deficiency disease is caused by a shortage of the primary nutrients (NPK). It often involves a lack of nitrogen (N). A nitrogen shortage delays growth, and makes the lower-most leaves turn yellow and again, they can drop off.
Molds can completely destroy a garden in a short time. If the climate in the grow room is well-controlled, molds, in general, have little chance. Molds and fungus thrive very well under humid conditions, preferably without much air circulation. Under these circumstances, mold spores, which are always present in the air, search for a spot to grow into mold cultures. If you don't succeed in preventing mold growth, then you must do something about it as quickly as possible. With light mold growth, immediately remove the affected plant parts, and then create a climate in which cannabis does well, and molds don't (good ventilation, control of humidity and temperature, and putting your plants on a medium which is not too wet, but holds water).
Pythuim Mold (Root rot) This affects roots and inter nodes up to the first set of leaves usually. Only in
the most extreme cases will it go any higher. As its the wet soil it lives on, but again, rare.
Root/stem rot can go unnoticed in soil, If ya love your plants though, youll notice it before they cause
the plants to fall over at the mercy of gravity. If this happens and the plant in general is in "ok" health.
Clone the entire plant, or chop it down into many. the base will be destroyed beyond recognition.
To avoid this, constant soil/rockwool temperature will work. extreme dips and spikes increase its growth.
Mildew (aka toprot) attacks plant tops, but can technically attack in opposite of root rot "anything above the first
inter node is susceptible It also looks the same, it will begin to rot plant tops, branches and those bud
sites your working so hard to protect.
Mildew is white, "Powdery white" is a specific type, but describes most mildew well.
You will need to remove the part of the plant and then a bit to ensure safe removal.
sadly in some cases this means the whole plant top. All is not lost, as the plant will recover
and act as if it had been simply topped, and will side branch, it simply sets you back weeks.
Humidity during the dark period is what helps here, if its too high during lights out, mildew can take hold.
Im pretty sure im missing something here, let me know in the comment box below.
Enemies of Cannabis - Grow room pests!
Looking for diseases and not pests? Click here
The list below tells of cannabis, err marijuana and grow room pests.
Even tomato, bean etc are easily over taken by whats listed here.
Ive always been "pro-organic" but i lost a crop worth hundreds to that and now i dont play games.
Get them anyway you can, or youll lost months and hundreds, its just not worth it.
There are non-organic pesticides that break down in 24-48 hours into byproducts of
nitrogen, water, etc. theres no longer an excuse in todays world, 5 years ago yes, but not any more. read on!
WARNING: Any pestitide will do, AS LONG as its label reads safe for vegtable, if in doubt
use a pestiside safe for "tomatos". If your flowers are exremely heavy into budding, you may have problems
and may have to harvest and kill pests in 150*c Oven "any higher you risk vaping THC.
Most insecticides are safe to the day before harvest however, read the bottle. use your head and be safe.
SPIDER MITES - Come in red, clear, and white. These are actual spiders and not a typical insect, they feed off the bottom of the leaves and you wont see them on the tops. If left uncontrolled and entire plant will end up coated; and dead, in a silky very small tightly wound web of pwnt. Although ive never experienced these on cannabis, Ive had them on strawberry plant, no organic method worked, they are as resilient as the prohibition.
Treat with Pyrethrins of Chrysanthemum. "Bug spray with Pyrethrins as its active ingredient", breaks down in oxygen "air" after about a day or two", threat according to the bottle.
WHITEFLY -Tiny white flies found on your plants, they behave the same as spider mites, sap your plant. They lay eggs that are impossible to pull off the leaf without doing subtle damage. While draining sap and sugars from
the leaf. They are noticed sooner then spider mites usually, because you can
easilly notice the white spec flying around your plants. Their flight pattern is similar to that of a moth, and are 2 - 2.5 mm in size. These should be eliminated as soon as possible, they are hungrier then mites, and seem "at least in my experiance" to expand thier ranks faster. Eliminate the same as you would spider mites with Pyrethrins.
THRIPS - Very fast moving with wings " In later life stages" and look as it is pictured to the left when young. They are sap suckers that leave a shiny residue everywhere. Once they can fly they become very hard to control
and you must take action before this happens. Treat with anything that controls Thrips, including Pyrethrins sprays. Aside from sap they will
also "ravage" leaves penetrating it half way through to eat the
chlorophyll inside, then coat it in slime. The damage is not reverable because of that action.
PILL BUG - These are not actually a harm to any plant taller then a few centimeters, but ive listed them as a threat to the outdoor garden. They are about a half cm long and curl into balls when they are afraid, they arent actually an insect either.
These things like to nibble on the new stems of new plants for water and food.
While harmless to some plants, they tend to chop down cannabis seedlings
like little DEA lumberjacks, if you start your seed inside/clone inside first you
will not even known these enemies. Treat an area with Spinosad if seeding
directly outside. or dome each grow spot with a pop bottle for the first part of life.
they can hide a bit under soil so kick around and treat the area with spinosad well.
Im probably missing a few, and will add them if i remember, leaving comments below for types not listed
will help me remember lol :)
The list below tells of cannabis, err marijuana and grow room pests.
Even tomato, bean etc are easily over taken by whats listed here.
Ive always been "pro-organic" but i lost a crop worth hundreds to that and now i dont play games.
Get them anyway you can, or youll lost months and hundreds, its just not worth it.
There are non-organic pesticides that break down in 24-48 hours into byproducts of
nitrogen, water, etc. theres no longer an excuse in todays world, 5 years ago yes, but not any more. read on!
WARNING: Any pestitide will do, AS LONG as its label reads safe for vegtable, if in doubt
use a pestiside safe for "tomatos". If your flowers are exremely heavy into budding, you may have problems
and may have to harvest and kill pests in 150*c Oven "any higher you risk vaping THC.
Most insecticides are safe to the day before harvest however, read the bottle. use your head and be safe.
SPIDER MITES - Come in red, clear, and white. These are actual spiders and not a typical insect, they feed off the bottom of the leaves and you wont see them on the tops. If left uncontrolled and entire plant will end up coated; and dead, in a silky very small tightly wound web of pwnt. Although ive never experienced these on cannabis, Ive had them on strawberry plant, no organic method worked, they are as resilient as the prohibition.
Treat with Pyrethrins of Chrysanthemum. "Bug spray with Pyrethrins as its active ingredient", breaks down in oxygen "air" after about a day or two", threat according to the bottle.
the leaf. They are noticed sooner then spider mites usually, because you can
easilly notice the white spec flying around your plants. Their flight pattern is similar to that of a moth, and are 2 - 2.5 mm in size. These should be eliminated as soon as possible, they are hungrier then mites, and seem "at least in my experiance" to expand thier ranks faster. Eliminate the same as you would spider mites with Pyrethrins.
THRIPS - Very fast moving with wings " In later life stages" and look as it is pictured to the left when young. They are sap suckers that leave a shiny residue everywhere. Once they can fly they become very hard to control
and you must take action before this happens. Treat with anything that controls Thrips, including Pyrethrins sprays. Aside from sap they will
also "ravage" leaves penetrating it half way through to eat the
chlorophyll inside, then coat it in slime. The damage is not reverable because of that action.
These things like to nibble on the new stems of new plants for water and food.
While harmless to some plants, they tend to chop down cannabis seedlings
like little DEA lumberjacks, if you start your seed inside/clone inside first you
will not even known these enemies. Treat an area with Spinosad if seeding
directly outside. or dome each grow spot with a pop bottle for the first part of life.
they can hide a bit under soil so kick around and treat the area with spinosad well.
Im probably missing a few, and will add them if i remember, leaving comments below for types not listed
will help me remember lol :)
Sunday 6 March 2011
Making clones / Taking cuttings, easier then you think!
First and foremost keep three rules in mind.
1) Never cut from a sick plant, it wont end well.
2) Clones and cuttings, regarless of thier "cut" age or size, are actually the same age as thier parent.
3) Leave enough on the mother plant, as well as the cutting for both to move on with thier life healthily.
Whats a node?
A node is a spot on any branch that gives off new branch or leaf growth.
Whats an internode?
The stem area between two nodes on any branch or main stem is an internode "inter-node"
There are countless ways to take cuttings the 3 easiest ways are as follows
Directly into water. Directly into Soil, Directly into rockwool.
Find an idea spot on the mother plant, to take your cuttings from.
Each cutting should consist of 2 or 3 nodes, with 1 or 2 internodes.
The bottom of the plant should be about 1" long and be cut at a 45 to 35 degree angle.
This is not too important as many believe it wont work if you dont, which isnt true at all.
The reason for this is to increase cellular exposure from under the harder skin.
More exposure means more roots to begin and a faster start.
Dip your end in rooting hormone "gel or powder" and place 50-75% of the bottom into the
growing medium of your choice, if using plain water plant in a permanent medium once small roots form.
Warnings: Do not allow air bubbles to form where the roots are expected to grow.
If you do as above, and also remove a node "leaves" and plant deeper, remember
to cover that area in root hormone as well. This gives a sturdier plant and more rooting areas.
Use weaker lights while it prepares to root, heat will dehydrate a plant faster then it can get water at
this stage.
Confortable humidity is a must, for the same reason as using weaker lights. If you cant do this
provide a humidity dome for at LEAST 7-12 days. Remove it once in awhile to prevent
mold, fungus, insects, stemrot. "Twice per day, off for 5minutes"
Taking cuttings messes with growth hormones inside the plant, you will likely see alot more
latteral and side bushing on the mother if you clone the top of the main stem.
This can be avoided by taking cuttings from the bottom or sides.
If you are growing cannabis this side shooting is a good thing if you have the room.
Most but not all vegtables, like peas, would also benefit but tomato should be cloned from
sides.
I had a plant 5 or 6 years back that just got way too big for the area it was in, if it went to flower it would
have hit the roof, so what I had done was cut the plant down the middle, rooted the top half and flowered
two plants! Keep this in mind if a plant grows bigger then expected.
like growing a sativa in a bunch of indicas.
Cutting that sativa in half would give alot more equal sizes at harvest. But not always; check your strains.
PRO-TIP:
Using a single clone, ahead of time "remember its the same age as the parent, will also be the same sex!"
can be used to determing if a plant is male or female without having to flower all your plants
this can also prevent accidental pollination but using a small clown cupboard and culling all the males
long before they even go to flower.
Remember to keep track of what clone came from what parent. simply writing on each pot will do.
1 and 1 is a pair, 2 and 2 is another pair. "or A and A etc"
And lastly, your going to want and water with PLAIN water.
They just cant handle any food for awhile, give it 12 days, no less, even if they rooted by then.
You chance death, burns, stunting or slowing thier growth otherwise.
The organ "roots" like our stomach, is just not there to handle nutrients properly.
and although it can handle some, it cant handle most and can lock a plant uptake, ive actually
seen this.
If you have most ideas and suggestions please post them below, good stuff will get put in here!
1) Never cut from a sick plant, it wont end well.
2) Clones and cuttings, regarless of thier "cut" age or size, are actually the same age as thier parent.
3) Leave enough on the mother plant, as well as the cutting for both to move on with thier life healthily.
Whats a node?
A node is a spot on any branch that gives off new branch or leaf growth.
Whats an internode?
The stem area between two nodes on any branch or main stem is an internode "inter-node"
There are countless ways to take cuttings the 3 easiest ways are as follows
Directly into water. Directly into Soil, Directly into rockwool.
Find an idea spot on the mother plant, to take your cuttings from.
Each cutting should consist of 2 or 3 nodes, with 1 or 2 internodes.
The bottom of the plant should be about 1" long and be cut at a 45 to 35 degree angle.
This is not too important as many believe it wont work if you dont, which isnt true at all.
The reason for this is to increase cellular exposure from under the harder skin.
More exposure means more roots to begin and a faster start.
Dip your end in rooting hormone "gel or powder" and place 50-75% of the bottom into the
growing medium of your choice, if using plain water plant in a permanent medium once small roots form.
Warnings: Do not allow air bubbles to form where the roots are expected to grow.
If you do as above, and also remove a node "leaves" and plant deeper, remember
to cover that area in root hormone as well. This gives a sturdier plant and more rooting areas.
Use weaker lights while it prepares to root, heat will dehydrate a plant faster then it can get water at
this stage.
Confortable humidity is a must, for the same reason as using weaker lights. If you cant do this
provide a humidity dome for at LEAST 7-12 days. Remove it once in awhile to prevent
mold, fungus, insects, stemrot. "Twice per day, off for 5minutes"
Taking cuttings messes with growth hormones inside the plant, you will likely see alot more
latteral and side bushing on the mother if you clone the top of the main stem.
This can be avoided by taking cuttings from the bottom or sides.
If you are growing cannabis this side shooting is a good thing if you have the room.
Most but not all vegtables, like peas, would also benefit but tomato should be cloned from
sides.
I had a plant 5 or 6 years back that just got way too big for the area it was in, if it went to flower it would
have hit the roof, so what I had done was cut the plant down the middle, rooted the top half and flowered
two plants! Keep this in mind if a plant grows bigger then expected.
like growing a sativa in a bunch of indicas.
Cutting that sativa in half would give alot more equal sizes at harvest. But not always; check your strains.
PRO-TIP:
Using a single clone, ahead of time "remember its the same age as the parent, will also be the same sex!"
can be used to determing if a plant is male or female without having to flower all your plants
this can also prevent accidental pollination but using a small clown cupboard and culling all the males
long before they even go to flower.
Remember to keep track of what clone came from what parent. simply writing on each pot will do.
1 and 1 is a pair, 2 and 2 is another pair. "or A and A etc"
And lastly, your going to want and water with PLAIN water.
They just cant handle any food for awhile, give it 12 days, no less, even if they rooted by then.
You chance death, burns, stunting or slowing thier growth otherwise.
The organ "roots" like our stomach, is just not there to handle nutrients properly.
and although it can handle some, it cant handle most and can lock a plant uptake, ive actually
seen this.
If you have most ideas and suggestions please post them below, good stuff will get put in here!
The life cycle of cannabis "And most any flowering or fruiting plant"
Annual plant, single season completes a life cycle/generation.
The mother bore seed, which is harvested or drops "in the wild" to the ground, and life begins.
SEED STAGE:
At this stage the gender of the plant is already encoded into the seed, Stressed parents that have hermaphrodite
and created both flowers "male sacs and female calyx" polinated itself, can create or guarantee female seed.
More on that in another topic "Feminized cannabis seed".
Warm soil, damp, water seeps in the thin shell, life begins inside.
Seed inside will swell, cracking the outer shell, a tap root will emerge and seek down using gravity as a tool.
Once it feels safe enough it wills tart to grow up "by increasing seed leaf / cotyldon size rather then root size"
It will cast off its outershell, crow upwards and open to the light The next stage in life begins.
SEEDLING STAGE
This will occur till the first set of trueleaf, this does not include the first set of rigid leafs with less then 5 fan blades. The growth will appear slower then other plants at this stage, but the roots in cannabis at this stage
like to get a strong foothold, and will grow rapidly, once this is complete you will notice an almost double in
speed of growth in the leaf sets. this stage lasts from 3 days to 10 days. with an average of 6.
VEGITATIVE STAGE
The cannabis plant is photoperiod sensitive "with the exception of the ruderalis line of genes that are
age sensitive, and do not have a vegitative stage longer then about 48 hours. and go from seed to bud in about
65-70 days. Any cannabis plant recieve 13+ hours of light per day, regardless of how directly will remain
in vegitative stage. Some strains or weaker types may show preflowers, or stress if kept in this stage too long.
4 to 8 weeks is ideal based on what strain or gene your growing.
Indica plants should have about 16-18 hours of light
Sativas, near the equator prefer an equatorial light regimen of 13-14 hours of light tops.
Plants like Ruderalis strains "Autoflowering" or "Tomatoes" for example will automatically start
flowering / fruiting stage
FLOWERING/FRUITING STAGE
In cannabis and some other plants, this stage is regulated by a photosensitive hormone
When the hours per day are 12 hours "11 for for sativa, this is important" this phase begins.
Lots of people have trouble flowering sativas for this reason, they are not flowering sensitive at 12 hours
and will begin slowly and produce badly at 12/12 of light, and should be 11/13
Indica or any mix "90%" of the two in the genepool will like 12/12
For plants that are age sensitive, cut back a few hours but 12/12 isnt really required, but wont harm plants.
Check your plant on google for assistance, if you cant find anything just look at its region of origin.
Questions? Post below and ill get back promptly.
The mother bore seed, which is harvested or drops "in the wild" to the ground, and life begins.
SEED STAGE:
At this stage the gender of the plant is already encoded into the seed, Stressed parents that have hermaphrodite
and created both flowers "male sacs and female calyx" polinated itself, can create or guarantee female seed.
More on that in another topic "Feminized cannabis seed".
Warm soil, damp, water seeps in the thin shell, life begins inside.
Seed inside will swell, cracking the outer shell, a tap root will emerge and seek down using gravity as a tool.
Once it feels safe enough it wills tart to grow up "by increasing seed leaf / cotyldon size rather then root size"
It will cast off its outershell, crow upwards and open to the light The next stage in life begins.
SEEDLING STAGE
This will occur till the first set of trueleaf, this does not include the first set of rigid leafs with less then 5 fan blades. The growth will appear slower then other plants at this stage, but the roots in cannabis at this stage
like to get a strong foothold, and will grow rapidly, once this is complete you will notice an almost double in
speed of growth in the leaf sets. this stage lasts from 3 days to 10 days. with an average of 6.
VEGITATIVE STAGE
The cannabis plant is photoperiod sensitive "with the exception of the ruderalis line of genes that are
age sensitive, and do not have a vegitative stage longer then about 48 hours. and go from seed to bud in about
65-70 days. Any cannabis plant recieve 13+ hours of light per day, regardless of how directly will remain
in vegitative stage. Some strains or weaker types may show preflowers, or stress if kept in this stage too long.
4 to 8 weeks is ideal based on what strain or gene your growing.
Indica plants should have about 16-18 hours of light
Sativas, near the equator prefer an equatorial light regimen of 13-14 hours of light tops.
Plants like Ruderalis strains "Autoflowering" or "Tomatoes" for example will automatically start
flowering / fruiting stage
FLOWERING/FRUITING STAGE
In cannabis and some other plants, this stage is regulated by a photosensitive hormone
When the hours per day are 12 hours "11 for for sativa, this is important" this phase begins.
Lots of people have trouble flowering sativas for this reason, they are not flowering sensitive at 12 hours
and will begin slowly and produce badly at 12/12 of light, and should be 11/13
Indica or any mix "90%" of the two in the genepool will like 12/12
For plants that are age sensitive, cut back a few hours but 12/12 isnt really required, but wont harm plants.
Check your plant on google for assistance, if you cant find anything just look at its region of origin.
Questions? Post below and ill get back promptly.
Friday 4 March 2011
Using a Credit card to order? read this!
I was asked how to place a CC order online "this goes for anything really"and still remain
private, so this is what I wrote on that forum reply.
It is actually so good i put it here.
Get a prepaid vanillamastercard Mastercard.
They come in 25, 50, 100, 150, 200, 300 denominations, and it costs $3 to $7 to activate. Depending on size.
1 time use, no fuss no muss.
You go on the website for the card www.vanillamastercard.com (.ca) and click register your account
It just asks for postal code
You can literally use whatever the fuck u want on the order form
Eg:
Sombuddahz name
152 bitemeon my ass avenue
some city, NV
12752 <--- as long as that matches to what u put on the website it will go through
Now of course ur going to want your address to match
but what i do is i lie on the name like
Mr Andrew Kennedy <use different one each time>
<my address>
<my postal code>
Then if it gets stopped, and im ever questioned. i can deny that shit like OJ.
simply tell them you put "return to sender" on the envelope/box and dropped that shit in a post box.
because no mr kennedy lives there lolwut
as long as the postal code matches, youll get approved.
Once ur done, cut up and toss the card.
As a side note, any card thats prepaid would work
If you have to register the card you can still register it to a fake name.
Since its a 1 shot deal it wouldnt matter, just make sure the name appears real
if you have to ever call the card people; rare but happens; it would suck to say your name
is "Some bitch in the midwest", only to try and convince the lady on the phone
thats how your card was registered haha!
remember, when they ask your name, they have no way to verify your real name
and dont really care, as its a 1 time card. GL all and stay safe.
_ Remember any prepaid "NON REFILLABLE" credit gift card should be used.
The refillable "secured" ones have as much a paper trail as a line of credit.
private, so this is what I wrote on that forum reply.
It is actually so good i put it here.
Get a prepaid vanillamastercard Mastercard.
They come in 25, 50, 100, 150, 200, 300 denominations, and it costs $3 to $7 to activate. Depending on size.
1 time use, no fuss no muss.
You go on the website for the card www.vanillamastercard.com (.ca) and click register your account
It just asks for postal code
You can literally use whatever the fuck u want on the order form
Eg:
Sombuddahz name
152 bitemeon my ass avenue
some city, NV
12752 <--- as long as that matches to what u put on the website it will go through
Now of course ur going to want your address to match
but what i do is i lie on the name like
Mr Andrew Kennedy <use different one each time>
<my address>
<my postal code>
Then if it gets stopped, and im ever questioned. i can deny that shit like OJ.
simply tell them you put "return to sender" on the envelope/box and dropped that shit in a post box.
because no mr kennedy lives there lolwut
as long as the postal code matches, youll get approved.
Once ur done, cut up and toss the card.
As a side note, any card thats prepaid would work
If you have to register the card you can still register it to a fake name.
Since its a 1 shot deal it wouldnt matter, just make sure the name appears real
if you have to ever call the card people; rare but happens; it would suck to say your name
is "Some bitch in the midwest", only to try and convince the lady on the phone
thats how your card was registered haha!
remember, when they ask your name, they have no way to verify your real name
and dont really care, as its a 1 time card. GL all and stay safe.
_ Remember any prepaid "NON REFILLABLE" credit gift card should be used.
The refillable "secured" ones have as much a paper trail as a line of credit.
Tuesday 1 March 2011
How to buy seeds online:
First and foremost, purchasing cannabis seeds isnt legal in all countries, even if its legal to posses them.
"I know.... lol"
Doing it online doesnt put you outside of those local laws and furthermore in countries where you are
allowed to buy them "like Canada" they will confiscate them, and can still charge you with intent to
produce a sched II narcotic, and its not usually hard to prove. Why else would you pay $15 for a seed.
And remember, just because you can buy them its pretty much illegal to plant them anywhere.
"Few places are legal, and if you have government ID to do it as well, like in USA".
Check your local laws
This post / website in no way shape or form is promoting illegal activity, even where it can be legal
its still frowned upon, which leads us to this post.
1) Keep your shit a secret dawg! No litterally, its your secret, keep it. Others have nothing to lose by spreading
around your buisiness, and its easy for friends to slip up or enemies to get even. How can you expect them
not to tell, or keep a secret, if you cant?
2) Never pay by money order, or check, use credit card. but not a named card.
Go to your local shops and find prepaid Mastercard, Visa, American Express; etc gift cards and use that
to do your purchases. Remember that most sites now destroy this information 'most' after the deal is done
and a certain amount of time has passed. You should do the same.
Cut up and destroy the card "after your seeds arrive", and unregister or change online registration information
if you have that ability. Discard of the card, its now used.
3) Never ship to where youll be growing "If youll be growin em, heh". Ship to a friend
brother, mother, sister, aunt etc. Just make sure they wont open your mail, if people come looking
theres nothing left at this address, legally they cannot get a warrant for another address, theres no link.
Police have known to lie however to get what they need, especially for marijuana, if they put this much
effort into finding rapists and murderers we would be better off. Anyway, stay informed.
Keep pointer (1) in mind when choosing a donor address.
4) ship that shit to a real name and address. Mailmen arent stupid, and know an abandoned house when they see one. Use some initials in the address if you feel better about privacy. Make it deliverable. Deliveries are very stealth nowadays so dont be overly retarded about it. Brings me to my next point.
5) Avoid customs checks! Mail from "out of the country" risks a check by your local customs officers.
If you have to buy out of the country use one known to get through, some just arent as smart as others.
Ordering from overseas is the biggest dumb move as EUR is known for shipping seeds, happens alot.
Western world keep it in the west, Eastern world keep it in the east.
6) Use public email services when ordering, Yahoo or MSN/Hotmail are perfect here, dont use your
@myisp.com because everything else would have been useless, a call to your ISP would just
reveal you and your address. Remember, stealth all around. I recommend Yahoo, used it for years
as a primary mailer "15+" and have the same address after all this time, and guess what; ive chained ISPs a few
times and would have had to change emails :)
7) Dont have your package sent requiring a signature, thats just proof you took the seeds if you ever
have to defend yourself. Some seeds companies will send this way regardless, and I say shop somewhere else.
8) Be patient, going to the postal website to track your package twice a day for 2 weeks sends up red flags.
Especially if from overseas. Wait 21 days before you start looking and talk to them first.
Remember what your ordering here, drool all over your mailbox is a giveaway.
9) Order in pieces, If possible get a few seeds from one company, and a few from another.
I dont think I need to explain why here. If your order is just 1 or 2 packs id not bother but remember.
If confiscated, its better to recover some then to lose everything, they arent cheap!
10) Dont order your whole life, its silly, Start cloning "learn!!" your favorite female, or grow out a male
once in awhile and make your own seeds. If you only have to ever order seeds once your alot safer
then having to do it every 4 months. remember once its in privacy less can go wrong.
11) Dont order from the new guys, you risk ripoff or worse, a sting. This actually occured once
where police had set this up, never sent seeds then made a list of buyers for themselves.
Use seed bank review sites that are "newer" and order from "older" companies.
Nothing worse then paying $20 a seed for that high times cup winner to get $5 seeds
of "skunk crossed with errr ??? i forget" seeds...
12) Double check for the liars!
A guy I knew once ordered from a seedbank with the canadian flag on its face, canadian in the name
a had a canadian number "turned out it was magicjack!" they were actually located in the UK
and when he got caught "customs confiscated his seed" he didnt grow for like 2 years.
Personally Ive never grown, but I cant imagine the heart attack he must of had when
he expected police to come knocking. He also moved to Alberta he was so paranoid.
Comments?
Please post seed companies you have done buisiness with and give it a rating from 1 to 10
and thier buisiness location.
Furthermore, seed bank reviews are here Seed bank reviews!
"I know.... lol"
Doing it online doesnt put you outside of those local laws and furthermore in countries where you are
allowed to buy them "like Canada" they will confiscate them, and can still charge you with intent to
produce a sched II narcotic, and its not usually hard to prove. Why else would you pay $15 for a seed.
And remember, just because you can buy them its pretty much illegal to plant them anywhere.
"Few places are legal, and if you have government ID to do it as well, like in USA".
Check your local laws
This post / website in no way shape or form is promoting illegal activity, even where it can be legal
its still frowned upon, which leads us to this post.
1) Keep your shit a secret dawg! No litterally, its your secret, keep it. Others have nothing to lose by spreading
around your buisiness, and its easy for friends to slip up or enemies to get even. How can you expect them
not to tell, or keep a secret, if you cant?
2) Never pay by money order, or check, use credit card. but not a named card.
Go to your local shops and find prepaid Mastercard, Visa, American Express; etc gift cards and use that
to do your purchases. Remember that most sites now destroy this information 'most' after the deal is done
and a certain amount of time has passed. You should do the same.
Cut up and destroy the card "after your seeds arrive", and unregister or change online registration information
if you have that ability. Discard of the card, its now used.
3) Never ship to where youll be growing "If youll be growin em, heh". Ship to a friend
brother, mother, sister, aunt etc. Just make sure they wont open your mail, if people come looking
theres nothing left at this address, legally they cannot get a warrant for another address, theres no link.
Police have known to lie however to get what they need, especially for marijuana, if they put this much
effort into finding rapists and murderers we would be better off. Anyway, stay informed.
Keep pointer (1) in mind when choosing a donor address.
4) ship that shit to a real name and address. Mailmen arent stupid, and know an abandoned house when they see one. Use some initials in the address if you feel better about privacy. Make it deliverable. Deliveries are very stealth nowadays so dont be overly retarded about it. Brings me to my next point.
5) Avoid customs checks! Mail from "out of the country" risks a check by your local customs officers.
If you have to buy out of the country use one known to get through, some just arent as smart as others.
Ordering from overseas is the biggest dumb move as EUR is known for shipping seeds, happens alot.
Western world keep it in the west, Eastern world keep it in the east.
6) Use public email services when ordering, Yahoo or MSN/Hotmail are perfect here, dont use your
@myisp.com because everything else would have been useless, a call to your ISP would just
reveal you and your address. Remember, stealth all around. I recommend Yahoo, used it for years
as a primary mailer "15+" and have the same address after all this time, and guess what; ive chained ISPs a few
times and would have had to change emails :)
7) Dont have your package sent requiring a signature, thats just proof you took the seeds if you ever
have to defend yourself. Some seeds companies will send this way regardless, and I say shop somewhere else.
8) Be patient, going to the postal website to track your package twice a day for 2 weeks sends up red flags.
Especially if from overseas. Wait 21 days before you start looking and talk to them first.
Remember what your ordering here, drool all over your mailbox is a giveaway.
9) Order in pieces, If possible get a few seeds from one company, and a few from another.
I dont think I need to explain why here. If your order is just 1 or 2 packs id not bother but remember.
If confiscated, its better to recover some then to lose everything, they arent cheap!
10) Dont order your whole life, its silly, Start cloning "learn!!" your favorite female, or grow out a male
once in awhile and make your own seeds. If you only have to ever order seeds once your alot safer
then having to do it every 4 months. remember once its in privacy less can go wrong.
11) Dont order from the new guys, you risk ripoff or worse, a sting. This actually occured once
where police had set this up, never sent seeds then made a list of buyers for themselves.
Use seed bank review sites that are "newer" and order from "older" companies.
Nothing worse then paying $20 a seed for that high times cup winner to get $5 seeds
of "skunk crossed with errr ??? i forget" seeds...
12) Double check for the liars!
A guy I knew once ordered from a seedbank with the canadian flag on its face, canadian in the name
a had a canadian number "turned out it was magicjack!" they were actually located in the UK
and when he got caught "customs confiscated his seed" he didnt grow for like 2 years.
Personally Ive never grown, but I cant imagine the heart attack he must of had when
he expected police to come knocking. He also moved to Alberta he was so paranoid.
Comments?
Please post seed companies you have done buisiness with and give it a rating from 1 to 10
and thier buisiness location.
Furthermore, seed bank reviews are here Seed bank reviews!