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Saturday, 7 January 2012

How to pick your strain of Cannabis / Marijuana.

Sativa Vs Indica (vs Ruderalis?)
How to pick your strain of cannabis/marijuana

Ruderalis gets its roots from asia;
Has a flowering time earlier then both sativa, and indica; and flowers based purly off age.
Ruderalis is the reason strains with auto flowering traits exist.
Its also the smallest of the 3, with some strains only inches tall when fully grown and budded.
Ruderalis has a lower THC content, and has little recreational use "aside from breeding its traits
into a sativa or indica strain, like low height, autoflowering, or harsh tolerances."
there are some wild variations of ruderalis found in canada and the united states;
and if found have no use.

sativas are the head/cerebral bread and butter buzz, tall, spindly, slender, the green is often lighter.
a pure sativa can be incredibly rich in THC - to the point of mild hallucinogenic effects without
the nausia you can get from indica when smoking that much.
thin leaves, which are slender. plants can reach 20+ feet tall in some areas.

Easy to grow indoors, dark green, covered in THC ICE/snow; short bushy. body buzz.
pain relief, stress releif. calm and serene. Great for insomnia.
often a feeling of high in the body with no effect in the head whatsoever.
Couch-lock effect Often reaching 3-6 feet tall and wide.

When choosing a strain simply refer to this description and remember that
often times strains are mixes; i would say that the most common are


100/0 - 80/20 - 50/50  - 20/80 - 100/0    (and somtimes ruderalis is added)

also remember any plant stating (autoflower) or (grows only 1 foot!!) etc will have ruderalis genetics
and can be used for tiny areas.

Sunday, 10 April 2011


First this system is based off the full plants design found Here in another post on this same website.
so make sure you build that system, the changes will be to the lid so do not build the lid in that post.
Simply save the lid.
You should also use a cloning size bubbler, so a smaller basin then you would normally use or is suggested
in that post, perhaps a 2 foot wide by 1 foot deep, but half foot tall would do well.
-=- End -=-

What you need:
Bag of sponges, the non abrasive ones that are nice and fluffy. The one pictured here will also work
if you keep the abrasive side UP.

 Typical Sponge for washing dishes, ETC.

Plastic cups, Standard size - Cut the middles out of the bottom but not the whole bottom.
Center your cut and leave 10% of the bottom on around the edges, this will be to support
the sponge. Now cut the sponge so it will fit loose on the bottom of the cup.
Now remove a portion of the sponge, to accomodate a stem of a cutting.

Now design your lid as per instructions found Here but to accommodate the small cups.
Now you cuttings stems should go down through the center of the cups "which will help humidity if the walls go up the plants as well"
The stems should go at least 1 inc below the sponge, then drop the sponge into the cup.
The stems should be into the nutrient solution of your bubbler, when they root. simply slit
the sponge and remove them, now plant your new clones in pots or a permanent hydro system.

For more information comment below and I will answer within 12 hours.

Saturday, 2 April 2011

How to plant seeds.

While this I know there are "Effective methods" that doesnt mean they make sense.
For example, ive never understood why anyone would want to use paper towels, even for older seeds. Silly.
IF your seeds are old, soak in a small amount of water to assist, dont germinate in paper.
Even if its worked perfectly for you, why be so paranoid, if it germinated in the paper towel it would
have germinated in soil, or rockwool; exactly the same.

Now, im not going to tell you plant cannabis seeds at this depth, or tomato seeds at this depth, instead
im going to give you the tools you need to always know how deep to plant a seed. lets get started

First note the shape of the seeds your planting, are they long like this  ===  ? or round like this (O) ?
Is one end knotted like so [)  where it appears to have been connected to the plant?
Cannabis seeds are round and knotted for example, lets keep going.
Are your seeds 6 inches long "Mango" or half to 1 milimeter in diameter "Poppy / Tobacco"
Are your seeds flat with a center bump "Tomatillo/Tomato/Peppers of any kind"
Golf balls? "Bulbs such as garlic or tulips".
Region, is it from africa? "Leonotis leonurus aka Wild Dagga" or Mexico? "Salvia divinorum / Diviners Sage"
All of which ive grown and they need very different things!

Now normally I wouldnt do this, but I want this information to sink in so write this down as you see it below.

Shape: __________________________________

Now lets fill in that list, For size simply write how big it is.
Shape is also easy, flat and round or long and tubular, oval and partially flat or diamond like.
Color should be filled in with the color of fertile, ready seeds, White strawberry seeds wont grow, see what im sayin?
If theres a knot in your seed simply put yes here, knotted seeds should planted a certain way, we will get to that.
Flat seeds also should be planted a certain way, and while theres debate if its important or not ill fill ya in on
what it is, and why.
Region should be filled with country, then that countries information on climate, why you ask?
Well this determines many things, some seeds wont germinate above or below temperatures, or will
require a cold freezing period to break dormancy, these things are relevant to where a seed came from.
And in cases after germination, humidity and how much water will play a roll based on this information too.
Notes should be filled in with whatever else you got to remember, the internet is a big place and you
can get notes from there, for example, to grow Diviners Sage, humidity has to be 70% or greater or
the plant will stagnant and not grow at all, it can become brittle and die.
The web will tell you otherwise, but ive grown 3 of these plants and found all othter information to be false.
Even if you train the plants to live in low humidity it will just stagnate. Lets get started
For cannabis, simply using "Indica or Sativa" is generally enough, but different enough to be important.
Sativas like warmer soil to germinate, while indica can germ in cooler. flowering for indica and all hybrids is 12/12 while for sativas should be 11/13.

For the size of the seed, excluding overly large ones, the seed should be planted at a depth, 3 times the sizeof the seed. excluding "long" seeds, more on that in a second.
So cannabis seeds should be at about 1 inch deep, tiny seeds like strawberry or tobacco should be place on top of soil, then lightly dusted with dirt 1 mm to 2 mm deep only, then misted so as not to wash them in.

Round seeds should be planted anyway you see fit UNLESS its knotted or abnormal, more on that in a minute.
Rounds seeds generaly are placed into thier holes whichever way they fall and left to grow.
Flat seeds should be planted with the broad sides up and down, this assist in shedding when the stem bend comes up, as it will leave the seed head in the dirt just a little longer this way, this is a good thing as it keeps
the seed coat moist longer, and when it finally pulls out the seed leaves will be larger leaving the seed in the ground. Not doing it this way can sometimes cause it to come up with the shell still on the seeds, at which
time it will harden in the air, and the plant will have to fight harder to remove it, sometimes a plant can also
Long tubalar seeds like many flowers should be planted side to side, not up and down for the same reason
flat ones are planted that way. The exception to this is large seeds that do not grow out of the dirt and
just send up a plant from it, Mango, Garlic, Onion etc do this. As well as most bulbs.
The seed of a Mango tree for example, does not turn into seed leafs, but is more like "a hunk of root"
It will send a root tip down "which starts off as an amazing 1cm diameter :O" and then will send up
a tree stem, which creates brand new leafs. I grew one of these to 2 feet tall before it died and to
this day im not sure what caused it, going to do it again :)

Simply put you wouldnt plant a white seed when it should be green, (cannabis)
or a green seed that should be white "Tomato, Strawberry"
Or white that should be black "Watermelon, Poppy(some are blue and white though, check your variety)"
Its a safe bet if you bought your seeds that majority color is correct, if your harvesting your own
try to remember the color the seed was, or use the internet, dont even waste time on immature seeds.
Even on the rare chance they grow, the plant will look like it has retardation and will never be quite right.
The odds are less then 5% though, dont bother.

The knot side will NEVER be the side the root time extrudes from.
Its the side that some seeds have from a connection to a stem.
This side should be planted UP, for some plants it doesnt matter "Like cannabis" but will shave a day
or two off when youll see the plant come into the air. The sooner a plant is in the air the faster
it will start to grow. 2 days sooner into vegetative stage is 2 days sooner to everything else too.
Some will argue to plant it down, so when the tip emerges going up, it will turn to go down and make a stronger stem and root system. This is just retarded as it will do that anyway with or without your help, so
why choose to stagnate progress.

Using the shape of the seed to determine orientation theres a small tidbit more information.
Flat seeds generally grow up a bit differently, usually showing stem before leafs.
Cannabis does this too without being flat, but I believe some knotted types show this behavior, not all.
Flat seeds will (90% of the time) have large amounts of stored energy, and larger then average seed leafs.
"For the plant types of course that have them", and while this information isnt critical, its good
knowledge to have in case you want to grow a vine. More on that in another post, another time.

Seeds come from plants, its no secret, but where that plant comes from, might be.
So if your having no success in germinating perfectly viable seeds, you can be your ass its because
your not satisfying the region it came from.
Some seeds like poppy will not grow in warm soil, above 22*C
Some seeds like cannabis will stagnate "but may still grow, slowly" outside of the range 22-30.
With sativas probably 24-32*C.
Youll need to find this out on your own as im not going to make a list here, would be huge but if your
reading this chances are you already know how to use yahoo or google to find what you need.
I will say this though, soil temperatures are going to be lower then the room temperature.
Dont assume because the room your in is 24*C that the soil will be, because it wont.
Heating mats and fridges, TVs tops etc can warm soil, while using frozen sheets or towels can bring it down some. Just be patient and experiment with the stubborn stuff.
Simply applying air flow can also lower soil temp without affecting room temps.
Humidity will play a roll too, stubborn seedlings can die if they emerge into 30% RH.

Region information is a good idea, or what you successfully did to pop stubborn seeds.
Information on what a seed hates is good too.
Does a seed germinate better in clay or sandy soils? put that here as well.
Does it prefer rich damn rainforest like dirt, or desert sands as far as nutes go.
Put that here as well.

What you now have is a small information card to hang on too for your seeds. Keep them in a small book
or something, dont loose it.
You could do it for everything you grow, or what different strains like of the same plant "Tomato or Cannabis are good examples of this"
But remember, im not responsible for what you do, im not doing it, you are.
Use code names, anagrams, nicknames, make up shit for the names if your doing it for
Cannabis or Papaver somniferum, more shit to help lock you up isnt what your intention is, so be smart.

Friday, 25 March 2011

Making hash the easy way.

Kief, Hash, Pack, Brick, Brown, Bowl rubber, sticky icky.
Whatever you call it, its the same thing; and making it is a pretty easy task.
You can use anything from left over cut/trim from harvest, or entire buds.

The Screen Method

You will simply need "bubble bags"
or a mesh screen of about 125-150 micron.
The larger the mesh, the more youll have, but the lower the grade.
With the opposite being true as you reduce screen size. Do not go over 175 is my diagnosis.
Going below 110 is also a pretty bad idea.
You will also need a few liters worth of ice if using bubble bags.

For the screen, suspend it over the whitest brightest paper you can find, and "gently" wave the grass
back and forth across it, the good stuff will go through and the bad stuff will not.

For bubble bags, "which will separate your shake into 'grades'", you put the smallest micron bag in first
then each other in that order untill your bags are in place, then your ice, your shake, and water untill
your bags are 80% topped up. Now vigorously mix with a hand blender for 10-15 minutes and then allow to sit
an hour.

Fill cellophane with your mixes "or if in grades, separate cellophane" and wrap tightly.
Wrap in 5 layers of newsprint and wet, tape it up. Use a rolling pin, cough leg and then have sex on it :)
whatever it takes to compact and tight that as much as you can.
Rewet the paper, make sure your tape is holding and bake in an oven of 100*F for 10minutes
then repress.

The Blender Method

Put water in a blender. Add a large handful of leaves, stems, seeds and weak weed. Put it in 3 or 4 ice cubes and blend it for 3-4 minutes or so. Just make sure everything is chopped very finely. Second, you will need a gold reusable coffee filter. Get a large mouth quart mason jar, and strain your Slurpee mixture through it. Once you have strained all the liquid through, run some more water through the leaf material to wash any extra trichomes through.

After a few minutes you will notice a white collection at the bottom of the jar, this is the trichomes. Let the trichomes settle at the bottom for about 20-30 minutes. Next, pour off the top 2/3's of the filtered green water, leaving the settled trichomes at the bottom. Add more ice water to get the green stuff out, and let the trichomes settle at the bottom for about 20 minutes again. Repeat this step one more time. Pour off as much water as you can without pouring off trichomes, filter the resulting trichome/water mix through a paper coffee filter. The trichomes will not go through the paper, but the water will. When all the water has gone through, slightly wet, cold, mass of trichomes will be left. They will be easy to handle and to press.

Never store wet hash! it can mold.

Tuesday, 22 March 2011

How to prune/top cannabis.

Pruning marijuana isnt hard, in fact you should prune every plant at least once regardless of its lineage.
That may be a bold statement, but i'm sticking to it until proven otherwise ;)

Weed can be pruned any number of times, And at each site will cause two top, and in addition all
side sites will also begin to grow, causing a Christmas shaped plant to bush like a rose bush.
Stubborn indica plants, or with sativa traits as well, to bush out the same. View the image here:

Note at each internode, there is a small set of leaves there, but they do not grow on a stem, they just
exist at the joints while the plant shoots straight up the middle.

If you cut the top of that plant, growth will stop in the main cola/stem and then the leaves that existed
in the joints before will stem up and grow. This causes as much as double the bud sites as before.
In addition, each new bud site can be pruned again and again.

To do the prune, you seek the growing top "Technically any growing 'tip' will be what you need"
Look for the 3rd internode from the top, and cut about a half centimeter above the joint.
Growth will appear to stop for a day or so, then youll notice your new tips growing :D

Do not prune closer then 1 week of flower.
Do not prune when you have transplanted at least 2 days after. And wait untill growth resumes
if it hasnt in that 2 days time.
Do not prune sick plants.
Do not prune baby plants.
Do not prune clones before they are sturdy and growing fast.
Do not prune insect infested plants.
 Although I never do it, you could apply a small bit of cooler wax, or gel to the cut site on the mother plant
to help against drying out, ive never had the problem. If you do keep it in mind.
You can easily "clone" anything you cut off the mother.
Not only will you get a bigger yeild from the mother plant
But you can get another tiny plant with a few more grams on it, Remember its all free anyway, you wernt
cloning, just topping :D